KUMBHESHVAR TEMPLE COMPLEX

The Kumbheshvar Temple complex, located in Old Patan City, 200 metres from the Patan Durbar Square, houses several temples and shrines dedicated to different Hindu and Buddhist deities along with two hiti ponds. The complex's structures developed in phases, are associated with several myths and legends that are still part of the belief structures and everyday practices of people. 

 

The entry to the complex is through Konti Sattal, a public rest rest house for travellers, pilgrims and traders. 

 

The main temple of the complex is the Kumbheshvar temple, a sacred shrine dedicated to Shiva that dates back to the Lichhavi period (450-750 CE). It is an elaborate, five-storied pagoda, one of the only two five-storied pagodas in Nepal, the other being in Nyatapola in Bhaktapur. The plan of the shrine is simple with an outer and inner area. The outer area serves as a sanctuary and the inner as an altar with a Shiva lingam in the centre. 

 

Various stories explain the existence of the Shiva Lingam from ancient times. However, the temple was constructed in 1392 by King Jaya Bhima and was only two stories high. As part of the periodic renovation we see of temples in this region, changes were made by King Jayasthiti Malla in 1422, and later, King Shrinivasa Malla reconstructed the temple in 1672. King Yognarendra Malla is said to have added three levels in the 17th century. 

 

There were multiple alterations over the years, and the temple was damaged in the 1808 and 2015 earthquakes. However, the royal families contributed heavily to the repairs and conservation works, making it the five-storied structure with decorated roofs that are seen today. The entire temple is decorated with intricate wood carvings. The wooden struts supporting the roofs have carvings of Lord Bhairava and his multiple consorts. The space between the struts is filled with intricate wooden latticework. Shiva’s mount Nandi is found kneeling in front of the temple. 

 

Another significant temple is the Bagalamukhi temple, dedicated to Goddess Bagalamukhi, one of the ten Hindu tantric Goddesses. The structure is a simple elongated single-storied structure with a rectangular cell occupying the southern part of the complex. Around the 1800s, the Prime minister of the Rana dynasty Bhim Shamsher provided the shrine of Bagalamukhi with a roof, a tiled floor, a silver torana, and a silver door with carvings. While the silver shrine is a highlight of the temple, it also displays intricate carvings and Newari woodwork on the walls and doors. 

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Similar to the Patan Durbar square, the temples in this complex also see a clear distinction based on the gender and caste of the deities. The Kumbheshvar temple, dedicated to a male deity, is worshipped and looked after by the Brahmins and other high-caste worshippers. On the other hand, the Bagalamukhi temple, next to the Kumbheshvar temple, is dedicated to one of the ten tantric goddesses where offerings of meat, alcohol, and animal sacrifices are made. The worshippers of this Goddess are the Kapali-Jog caste, often associated with Newari death practices. ​​​​​